Tea Blog

Modern publishers often receive criticism for producing books with impossibly long titles and subtitles. Yet a glance through nineteenth-century publications quickly reveals that today’s authors are merely continuing a long tradition.

Consider the wonderfully elaborate title of Julia C. Andrews’ 1860 work:

Breakfast, Dinner, and Tea: Viewed Classically, Poetically, and Practically: Containing Numerous Curious Dishes and Feasts of All Times and All Countries.

As titles go, it certainly leaves little mystery about the contents.

Part cookbook, part cultural commentary, and part social history, the book offers a fascinating glimpse into how food and tea were viewed during the Victorian era.

An Unusual Nineteenth-Century Cookbook

Published in 1860, Andrews’ book is not solely about tea. In fact, the “tea” in the title primarily refers to tea as a meal or social occasion rather than the beverage itself.

That distinction was especially meaningful during the nineteenth century, when tea could refer both to the drink and to an entire dining tradition.

The book explores various aspects of mealtime customs, recipes, entertaining, and food culture, providing readers with a snapshot of domestic life during the period.

Tea-Time Recipes and Victorian Treats

Several chapters focus on foods traditionally associated with tea service.

Among the recipes are an assortment of:

• Tea biscuits
• Cakes
• Preserves
• Sweets
• Regional specialties

Some recipes have names that sound unusual to modern readers, including delights such as rye drop cake and Mrs. Grundy’s Cake.

These recipes provide an interesting look at the types of baked goods that accompanied tea during the nineteenth century and illustrate how closely tea drinking and home baking were linked.

Tea as a Beverage

The book also includes sections devoted specifically to tea itself.

In discussing tea’s origins, Andrews reflects a common nineteenth-century understanding of the beverage, tracing it broadly to China without attempting the detailed historical analysis that modern tea scholars often provide.

She then follows tea’s journey into Britain and discusses its rise in popularity despite the remarkably high prices early consumers sometimes paid.

At various points in history, tea was considered a luxury item available primarily to the wealthy, making its eventual transformation into an everyday beverage all the more remarkable.

Tea in Early America

The book also touches on tea’s role in American history.

Andrews notes tea’s growing popularity in colonial America and references the disruptions caused by the Revolutionary War.

Like many writers of the era, she discusses the use of tea substitutes during periods when imported tea was difficult to obtain or politically controversial.

These observations remind readers that tea’s history is deeply connected to trade, politics, and cultural change.

Victorian Tea Classifications

One particularly interesting section lists tea categories familiar to nineteenth-century consumers.

According to Andrews, common black teas included:

• Bohea
• Congou
• Campoi
• Souchong
• Caper
• Pekoe

Green tea varieties included:

• Imperial
• Hyson
• Twankay
• Young Hyson

Many of these classifications have faded from common use, making the list an intriguing snapshot of the historical tea trade.

The Universally Cheerful Beverage?

Perhaps unsurprisingly, Andrews speaks highly of tea’s appeal.

She describes its uplifting and refreshing qualities, suggesting that tea’s positive effects were appreciated wherever it was consumed.

While modern tea enthusiasts may debate flavor profiles, brewing methods, and tea grades, few would argue with the observation that tea has long been valued for its ability to provide comfort and enjoyment.

One Brewing Recommendation Best Left in the Past

The most entertaining section for modern tea drinkers may be Andrews’ brewing advice.

She correctly cautions against boiling green tea, advice that remains sound today. Excessive heat can easily overwhelm the delicate character of many green teas.

Her recommendation for black tea, however, may alarm modern enthusiasts.

Andrews suggests boiling black tea for 15 to 20 minutes.

By contemporary standards, that would likely produce an intensely strong, bitter, and highly astringent brew.

Most modern black teas are typically steeped for only a few minutes rather than actively boiled for extended periods.

Still, historical brewing instructions offer valuable insight into changing tastes and preparation methods over time.

A Window into Tea History

One of the pleasures of exploring old tea books is discovering how dramatically tea culture has evolved.

Terminology changes. Preferred varieties come and go. Brewing recommendations shift. Yet tea itself remains a constant presence.

Books such as Andrews’ work allow modern tea lovers to step back into another era and see how previous generations understood and enjoyed one of the world’s most beloved beverages.

The Bottom Line

Breakfast, Dinner, and Tea is more than a cookbook. It is a fascinating historical document that captures Victorian attitudes toward food, hospitality, and tea.

While some of its tea-making advice may be better appreciated as history than practice, the book provides valuable insight into nineteenth-century tea culture and reminds us just how long tea has occupied a central place in daily life.

Just don’t boil your best black tea for twenty minutes while reading it.

See more of William I. Lengeman’s articles in this archive of tea commentary, history, and tea culture articles.

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