Tea leaves go through several processing steps, and one of the most important is drying. This step “cures” the tea—halting oxidation and moisture loss, while also contributing to the final flavor and aroma.
By adjusting temperature and technique, tea masters can create a wide range of flavor profiles, from honey-like sweetness to smoky, caramel notes.
There are several drying methods, but here are three of the most commonly used:
Baking
Baking is one of the most widely used techniques and was demonstrated at the World Tea Expo by Master Huang, coordinated by tea expert Thomas Shu.
This method requires careful control of both temperature and time. Experience and close attention are essential, even when using modern ovens that reduce—but do not eliminate—the need for skill.
Traditionally, wicker baskets placed over charcoal heat were used. Today, specialized baking machines have largely replaced these methods.
Some teas undergo multiple baking cycles. For example, Phoenix oolong is often baked up to four times. White teas such as Pai Mu Tan are also commonly baked.
Tea baking machine (image courtesy of Thomas Shu)
Roasting
Roasting is another important drying technique, often used to add depth and complexity to tea.
Multiple roasting cycles can build layers of flavor, as seen in teas like aged Lishan oolong.
Roasting may occur during processing as well as in the final drying stage, helping shape the leaves and refine the tea’s character.
While similar to baking in basic principle, roasting often emphasizes flavor development. Depending on the level—light, medium, or heavy—it can produce nutty, caramel, or dried fruit notes.
Ti Kuan Yin is a well-known example of roasted tea, with different roasting levels offering distinct flavor profiles.
Frying (Panning)
Frying, also known as panning, is commonly used in the production of Chinese green teas.
This method typically involves heating tea leaves in a wok over an open flame while continuously stirring. The movement of the leaves not only prevents burning but also helps shape their final appearance.
This technique is frequently used for teas such as Long Jing (Dragonwell) and some white teas.
As with other methods, the skill of the tea master plays a crucial role. The same tea type can vary significantly depending on how it is processed.
Bottom Line
Drying is a critical step that greatly influences the flavor, aroma, and overall character of tea.
The method—and the skill of the person performing it—can make a noticeable difference in the final cup.
If you find a tea source or producer you enjoy, it’s often worth sticking with them, while keeping in mind that natural variations will still occur.
See more of A.C. Cargill’s articles here.
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