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How Tea Became Hip

How did tea become a modern and “hip” beverage? Hold on—before we go too far, it’s worth remembering that tea has long struggled with an image problem.

For many, tea still evokes images of traditional tea rooms, complete with neatly trimmed sandwiches and formal settings. Others associate it with low-quality tea bags, producing a less-than-exciting cup. But over time, this perception has been steadily changing.

Modern afternoon tea gift basket with assorted teas and treats


Afternoon tea—reimagined for a modern audience

This traditional model of tea culture is gradually evolving into something more dynamic and contemporary. Part of that shift can be attributed to the efforts of influential tea advocates such as
James Norwood Pratt and his contributions to modern tea appreciation
and
David Lee Hoffman’s work promoting high-quality tea sourcing. Their dedication helped bring attention to better teas long before tea culture gained wider popularity.

Tea’s rise in popularity also coincided with a broader cultural shift toward food and beverage appreciation. The growing interest in culinary arts—often associated with the rise of “foodie” culture—helped elevate tea alongside coffee and wine as something worth exploring more deeply. Media influences, including the launch of cable networks like the Food Network in 1993, further contributed to this trend by bringing food and drink culture into millions of homes.

In fact, tea was already gaining recognition as a trendy beverage by the early 1990s. A 1994 New York Times article titled Evolution of Tea: Now It’s Hip highlighted tea’s increasing popularity across the United States. You can read this New York Times feature on the rise of tea culture in the 1990s for a firsthand look at the shift.

The article noted that tea consumption was expanding even in regions known for coffee culture, such as Seattle. It also pointed to growing sales of specialty teas and rising consumer interest in higher-quality loose leaf varieties.

As with many early explorations of tea culture, it also included a brief overview of tea basics and preparation methods—though it did repeat some common myths, such as the idea that a quick rinse can significantly reduce caffeine content.

Even so, the article provides an interesting snapshot of a turning point in American tea culture—one that helped pave the way for the diverse and vibrant tea scene we see today.

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6 responses to “How Tea Became Hip”

  1. […] How Tea Became Hip, By William I. Lengeman, III […]

  2. […] ever got to wondering how all this came to be, I offered up a few thoughts earlier this year in an article called How Tea Became […]

  3. That NY Times article is indeed quite. old. I do think that the common knowledge about tea has advanced quite a bit since then, so I wouldn’t fault NY Times, or the author, Florence Fabricant, for repeating that myth–it was only a few years ago that “reputable” sources like the USDA website had blatant false information on them about the caffeine content of various teas, probably based on well-intentioned mis-reading of oversimpilified studies with a limited sampling of teas.

    I try very hard to keep my blog’s informational articles up-to-date but I’m constantly catching errors in my information and making corrections, both on my own and as others catch them. That said, maybe if several of us contact NY Times about this point, they’d correct the article. It may be old, but it’s out there on the web and I think it would be beneficial both for NY Times and for readers of that article to have that point corrected.

    All that said, back to the main topic of this article…being “hip”; that first sentence does also make me cringe a little bit too. I’ve never been a fan of the whole concept of things being “hip” or “in”, and I’d prefer not to think of tea like this. “Hip” fashions and trends come and go, and I’ve gravitated to tea as something that I see as more timeless. I’d rather see people get excited about it because they discover it on their own, organically, and like the experience of brewing and drinking it, rather than see people discover it because it is the “latest cool thing”. I’d rather our society discard the idea of chasing the latest “hip” things altogether!

    1. Just goes to show – you gotta know where your info is coming from! Stay “hip,” Alex! Just kidding, and thanks for reading.

  4. So glad that I’m part of the ‘in’ crowd!

  5. Great article, out with the old and in with the new!

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