Tea Blog

As I’ve said many times before, there are a few types of tea I’ve tried very hard to like—but ultimately had to accept that they simply aren’t for me. One example is Earl Grey tea flavored with bergamot oil, which, to my palate, can taste overly perfumed. Another is Lapsang Souchong smoked black tea known for its distinctive pinewood aroma. While I’ve come to appreciate smoky teas somewhat, a traditional cup of Lapsang Souchong remains an acquired taste I’ve yet to fully acquire.

That said, I was intrigued when I recently encountered a tea I had not heard of before: Hu-Kwa. Further investigation revealed that this is a variety of Lapsang Souchong, reportedly originating from Taiwan and regarded as a higher-quality expression of this smoky style.

The name Hu-Kwa is linked to a historical Chinese merchant, also known as Howqua (1769–1843). While perhaps less well known in the West than figures like Thomas Twining or Thomas Lipton, he was highly influential in his time and is sometimes described as one of the wealthiest individuals in the world during his era.

Part of Howqua’s enduring reputation comes from his dealings with Western traders, who regarded him as trustworthy and fair. This stood out during a time when trade relations between China and Western merchants were often tense, and access to tea production knowledge was tightly controlled. In that environment, tea trade frequently involved secrecy and occasional attempts at industrial espionage.

This historical context adds an interesting layer to the story of Hu-Kwa tea. But the exploration didn’t end there. During my research, I came across a culinary twist on the theme: a historical recipe for tea-flavored ice cream using Lapsang Souchong.

You can learn more from this recreation of an 1844 recipe for Howqua’s tea ice cream using smoked Lapsang Souchong, which reportedly produces a flavor reminiscent of bacon—an unexpected but memorable result.

See more of William I. Lengeman’s articles in this archive of tea-related writing by the author.

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